Installation

How to install SwiftDeck wood tiles

To install SwiftDeck Ipe wood deck tiles, you’ll just need a tape measure, sharp knife and Phillips head screwdriver.  If you need to cut the tiles to fit around pipes, posts or other fixed features you’ll also need a handsaw or power saw to cut the tiles.  Everything you need for quick and easy installation is included in each box of SwiftDeck tiles.

Just follow these basic steps:

Step 1 – Design your deck

It’s a good idea to sketch your proposed design on paper before you start.  You can easily create unique patterns, designs and borders by aligning the tiles in different directions or by using a combination of different tile styles.  And remember, if you don’t like the first design you’ve put down, you can simply lift up the tiles and re-install them in a different pattern. You might find it helpful to use our Visualizer to check the difference in appearance between basket weave or parallel designs for example.

Step 2 – Prepare the surface

Although SwiftDeck Ipe wood deck tiles can be laid over most hard surfaces (concrete, asphalt, gravel, hard dirt), there should be no large cracks, bumps or depressions which could cause the tiles to lie unevenly or “rock” on the surface.  If the surface is particularly rough or cracked, it’s advisable to level the surface with a suitable exterior patching compound or filler. On hard dirt surfaces, sand or gravel, the surface should firstly be leveled, well compacted and then covered with a weed control barrier.  To provide good drainage under the tiles, the surface should normally slope slightly away from the outer wall of any structures.

Step 3 – Click the tiles in place

In most cases it’s best to start laying the tiles from one of the outer corners of the area you want to cover and work inwards towards the exterior wall.  After you have positioned the first tile in the corner of your workspace, take a second tile and align the connecting tabs on one edge of the first tile with the corresponding connecting tabs on the second tile.  Push the second tile down firmly so that both tiles lock firmly together.  Repeat this simple “snap in place” process, working in a diagonal direction across the area.
If installing the tiles in an area confined by walls on opposite sides, it’s important that a small gap is left against the wall to allow for expansion of the tiles which occurs not only due to temperature changes but also due to expansion of the wood when it absorbs moisture.

Step 4 – Finishing touches

With the last row of tiles, you may need to cut some tiles to fit any remaining gap.  SwiftDeck Ipe wood tiles can be easily cut with a handsaw, jigsaw or other power saw, taking care the saw does not contact any of the screws in the base of the tile.  You can also cut the tiles to fit around posts or pipes.

To provide a neat, professional finish to your design, straight edging is available which clips onto the edge of the outer row of tile.  Mitered corner edging is available (in pairs) for external corners.

Alternatively if you just want to hide the view of the plastic base and don’t want to use the 3 3/8″ wide clip on edge pieces, then you could consider the following. Remove the protruding tabs on the outer edge of the tiles with a knife and fix an ‘L’ shaped profile of plastic or aluminum along the outer row of tiles with corrosion resistant or stainless steel screws where the vertical rise of the L shape is approx. 1″ high.

Some commercially available products which could be considered are as follows:
Permalock Asphalt Edge – the ‘Asphalt Edge’ (1″ high) would be preferable to the 1 5/8″ high ‘StructurEdge’
Oly-Ola Edging Stone-Edg – PVC edging 1″ high
Extrude.A.Trim – anodized aluminum profiles

Step 5 – Sealing the deck

Although our Ipe wood tiles are coated with a decking oil at the factory, this is a very simple decking oil which is basically designed to enhance the initial appearance of the tiles.

For maximum weather protection, enhanced resistance to mildew or mold formation and to reduce the rate at which the tiles will naturally fade when exposed to direct sunlight, we strongly recommend applying a good quality decking oil/sealer to the deck tiles as soon as practical after installation.

Follow up applications should be carried out every 12 months or so, depending on your climatic conditions, the degree of exposure to sun and rain, and the recommendations of the decking oil/sealer manufacturer.

We strongly recommend using one of the more specialized products which include UV inhibitors and/or transparent iron oxides and have a high solids content rather than simple oil and turpentine-based products.

Since we haven’t tested the full range of oils/sealers available, we do not provide specific recommendations on products that could be used, but based on the respective manufacturer’s product data as well as ease of availability from local retail outlets, we suggest that some products you may wish to consider would include:

EzyTile Stone Tiles

Step 1 – Prepare the surface

When installing EzyTile deck deck tiles it’s important that the surface is as smooth and even as possible, with no bumps or surface depressions that would cause the tiles to lie unevenly or “rock” on the surface. We do not recommend installing EzyTile deck tiles on bare ground, sand or gravel. If the surface is particularly rough or cracked, it’s advisable to level the surface with a suitable exterior patching compound or filler. To provide good drainage under the tiles, the surface should normally slope slightly away from the outer wall of any structures

Step 2 – Click the tiles in place

In most cases it’s best to start laying the tiles from one of the outer corners of the area you want to cover and work inwards towards the exterior wall.  Position the first tile in the corner of your workspace with the protruding tabs on two sides facing in the direction you will be laying the tiles.  Take a second tile and place the side of the tile without the protruding tabs over the tabs on the first tile. Push the second tile down so that both tiles lock firmly together.  Repeat this simple “click in place” process, working in a diagonal direction across the area to be covered.

Step 3 – Finishing touches

With the last row of tiles, you may need to cut some tiles to fit any remaining gap.  For this you will need to use a wet saw with a diamond blade. When using the wet saw it’s best to cut away part of the plastic base that will lie in the path of the blade to avoid gumming the blade. But if you don’t want to rent a wet saw or prefer not to cut the tiles, that needn’t be a problem, as one of the simplest solutions is to fill the gap where the cut tile would sit with some attractive river pebbles or other landscaping materials. You could also use our pebble or mosaic tiles since these can easily be cut to shape with just a sharp knife. Or, if you want to add a bit more creativity to your design, you could leave out an extra tile or two elsewhere and fill these gaps with pebbles as well.

If you wish to hide the plastic base from view or if you need a sloping transition from the tile surface to the floor at the edge of your covered area, clip on edge pieces are available.  These injection molded edges and corner pieces are supplied in four colors although normally the grey would be used with the slate tiles, sand or grey with the granite tiles and sand or beige with the sandstone tiles.

ResiDeck Simulated Wood Tiles

Step 1 – Prepare the surface

Although ResiDeck deck tiles can be laid over most hard surfaces (concrete, bricks, existing wood decks, asphalt, gravel), there should be no large cracks, bumps or depressions which could cause the tiles to lie unevenly or “rock” on the surface.  If the surface is particularly rough or cracked, it’s advisable to level the surface with a suitable exterior patching compound or filler.  On gravel or crushed rock, the surface should firstly be leveled, well compacted and then covered with a weed control barrier.

It is essential that water can drain away quickly and freely from under the tiles via the plastic mesh base. To provide good drainage under the tiles, the surface should always slope slightly away from the outer wall of any structures by a min of 1/4″ per ft.

Step 2 – Click the tiles in place

In most cases it’s best to start laying the tiles from one of the outer corners of the area you want to cover and work inwards towards the exterior wall.  After you have positioned the first tile in the corner of your workspace, take a second tile and align the connecting tabs on one edge of the first tile with the corresponding slots on the underside of of the second tile.  Push the second tile down over the tabs on the first tile so that both tiles lock in place. Repeat this simple locking process, working in a diagonal direction across the area.

Step 3 – Finishing touches

With the last row of tiles, you may need to cut some tiles to fit any remaining gap.  ResiDeck tiles can be easily cut with a handsaw, jigsaw or other power saw with a fine blade, taking care the saw does not contact any of the screws in the base of the tile. You can also cut the tiles to fit around posts or pipes.

Step 4 – Edge Treatment

Whilst we don’t have any clip on edge pieces for the ResiDeck range of tiles, if you want to hide the view of the plastic base, then we suggest that you trim off the protruding tabs on the outer edge with a knife and run an ‘L’ shaped profile of plastic or aluminum along the outer row of tiles where the vertical rise of the L shape is approx. 1″ high. You would then push the horizontal base section of the profile under the tile and screw the vertical section to the outer edge of the tile with corrosion resistant or stainless steel screws.

You may also wish to consider the commercial edging products mentioned in the SwiftDeck wood tile installation section above.